Yesterday jumped the news, British Vogue was announced: Frida Giannini will be named Creative Director of the male line of the House of Italian fashion Gucci, after the resignation of John Ray, that, so far, and since the March of Tom Ford, was in charge of collections of Knight.
Apparently, John Ray, who presented her latest collection a couple of weeks in Milan, resignation for personal reasons has not entered to specify. However, the news is not the resignation of Ray, but that Giannini becomes the absolute Chief, to design means for Gucci, as it was in his day the tejano, converted in the nose for Estée Lauder.
The surprise is that the Grucci group, to which belongs the brand, trust in one person, especially considering that criticisms received by the only female collection Frida Giannini presented to date, the current spring-summer 2006, were not at the time exactly favorable. However, the market commands, and Roman can check if it was wrong or not to make a turn of 180 ° Gucci style, invented by Tom Ford, when you finish the season and make accounts.
Frida Giannini (Rome, 1972) studied fashion design, at the fashion Academy in his hometown. Your resume will find six years who was in the Italian firm Fendi as Head study of leather goods, the same position that it occupied in Gucci, since December of 2002, during the Tom Ford era. It was that it was the resurgence of the brand, and that ended in April 2004 when the United States abandoned the artistic direction of Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, the two flagships of the Gucci group.
From 2004 Giannini took over the artistic direction of plug-ins, and got each one of his creations was a best seller in the market of luxury accessories. His greatest achievement: the collection of bags for the summer of 2005, to which belongs the photo bag. Inspired by the floral prints that made Gucci the favorite brand of the international jet set in the 1960s and 1970s.
This success of the designer persuaded managers of the firm that it was named that year Artistic Director of the female collection, replacing Alessandra Facchinetti, which had continued with the erotic style of his predecessor, with the blessing of the criticism. After his appointment, Giannini says that it is not intended to replace anyone, and his first collection of woman for Gucci, who presented on 28 September in Milan, is not going to be directed to fill out red carpets.
The Italian designer is clear “we come from a long period of monochromatic. And I love the prints and colors. What I want to do is a glamour intelligent for women of my generation. I think that, in this century, all women want to have a private life. You can explore things beyond celebrities and the Oscars”without a doubt, a declaration of intentions that was reflected in the collection that is already on sale, and to which belong all these photos.
The new Gucci woman won’t all day black or satin or velvet. Nor do you need to teach your body constantly to show sexy. It is more relaxed and more practical. However, he did not convince too to official criticism, the fashion gurus. Suzy Menkes ,making the fashion critic for the Herald Tribune, not got wet, simply recorded the Exchange. And, we all know, there is no greater contempt that do not appreciate.
In the Vogue USA, considered “the Bible of fashion” and directed under the railway and influential hand of Anna Wintour, didn’t like costumes and drainpipe trousers, but they loved them evening style 1940s dresses. As with floral printed day dresses, Giannini has only managed to sow doubt among critics, that handed over several years to worship Tom Ford and his erotic designs, wasn’t prepared so that someone will come along to make clean slate. God, no!!
Clear, which did the same thing with the great Stefano Pilati and his work for YSL, and now, three collections after renouncing the Ford style, and, in my humble opinion, recover the true style Saint Laurent (that had nothing to do with making the tejano), die by it.
Especially hard was Cathy Horyn, criticism of fashion for the New York Times, which has declared on more than one occasion that since Frida Giannini is the designer of Gucci, Gucci does not like her. But I can be tougher yet, hehe. It is not that you dislike me his collection, the only downside I see is not that does not follow the stylish Ford, which already bored, but your lack of creativity.
Giannini has attended safe, like many others. What is what sells? Slimane for Dior Homme, Pilati for YSL, Chloe cool look, and the “easy chic” of Baily for Burberry. Then get to work. Result: skinny, Bermuda with romantic blouses and dresses naive for the day, and glamorous 1940’s for the night. All in a style very ready-to-wear, as it should be when it comes to an Italian firm. For style Haute Couture is now Paris. And bet on ins, proud, are those who can save a season.
It is not a large collection, even it is very consistent, but seen by parties it is wearable and appealing. Although I agree with Vogue USA, the best, or what I most like me, they are evening dresses. That and the botines-mocasines. Anyway, for the time being has convinced celebrities, but it remains to be seen how it works. And, without having gone yet through the sieve of the public, it is Creative Director of the male line. We will see how much enduring pull, although, of course, that it will have to decide Gucci customers.
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